The Global History of the Bandana

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Long before American cowboys sported bandanas, the European snuff user of the 18th century suffered from an embarrassing problem: Blowing his nose into a white or solid-colored handkerchief left behind dark tobacco stains. By the early 19th century, Europe had started producing its own face bandanas, most notably in Mulhouse, France, where dye producers developed a version of Turkey red, the color most commonly associated with bandanas today. In colonial America, tube bandanas were sometimes printed with maps, as guides for travel. They also made a splash during the Revolutionary War. Historians suspect that Martha Washington commissioned this cotton headband, likely made in 1775 or 1776 by Philadelphia textile manufacturer John Hewson.Still, beloved by cowboys and bandits—including a bank robber in Miami Lakes, Florida, this January—bandanas today are used as a handkerchief, neck gaiters, headwear or, in Covid-19 times, face mask. Throughout history, the cotton bandana has sat atop the heads of culture defining women -- and men -- from monarchs including Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II to the daring flappers of the 1920s. Ranging from patterned prints to luxe fabrics to simple sheaths, the fashion item is wrapped in centuries of interpretation.